After an early morning flight we arrive in Medellin, Colombia’s second largest city. It is a city affected deeply by the drug cartels, especially the one led by Pablo Escobar. Many areas of the city were dangerous places to live or visit before the death of Escobar in 1993 and the peace treaty in 2016.
We visited Comuna 8 this morning , a neighborhood in the hills of Medellín. Formerly it was under the control of the paramilitaries. A former member of the paramilitary group began a project to help bring this area together. He along with others began a recycling business. The Grand Circle Foundation, the parent company of Overseas Adventure Travel, is helping support the project.
Luis of the Hill of Values and Corpo Santo
The project also has a garden and a community center. They treated us to a wonderful lunch of lentil soup, arepas, rice and a vegetable salad. We had a new drink called refago, a blend of a local soda and beer.
We next visited the Museo de Antioquia that features the works of Fernando Botero. We were not allowed to take photos of his paintings but there are sculptures outside that we could.
Our trip to the market in the Restrepo neighborhood was both a cultural experience and a very tasteful one, too.
We tasted quite a few fruits that were unfamiliar. They included Lulo, Guanabana, Pithaya (Dragon Fruit), Granadilla and more.
We followed the market experience with a tour of the graffiti and street art in Bogotá. We were led by a local artist, Monica, who gave us a history of the art. She began with the first wall mural that was commissioned. It was a wall near a homeless encampment entitled “The Kiss of the Unseen Ones”.
Most of the art has a message and it was interesting to hear the meaning behind the art.
We ended at a local studio to try our hand with spray painting. I don’t think we’ll be doing any murals soon!
Tim and my art attempt
Tim and I ended the day with a walk to find a coffee shop (This is Colombia) that offered to process the cup of coffee many different ways. He smelled the different beans and chose the one he wanted. The barista prepared the coffee right at our table.
We decided to skip the hotel breakfast and find a place nearby. However it was Sunday and most everything was closed! We found a small place on the corner and got traditional breakfasts of coffee or chocolate, cheese and almojábana, a round small roll made from corn flour with fresh cheese in the middle. I had the hot chocolate and broke up my cheese and put it into the chocolate, which is the preferred Colombian way.
We joined our tour group for a walk around the Calendaria historic district.
Plaza de Bolivar
Simón Bolivar was a military leader who was instrumental in the cause for the independence of Colombia from the Spanish. Most of the buildings surrounding the plaza are government buildings along with the city’s cathedral.
Some photos from our walk:
Tasting a Buñuelo from a street vendor and observing the roasting of corn from another vendorColorful buildings everywhere
The Gold Museum is filled with over 55,000 pieces of gold from the history of Colombia’s indigenous people groups. The gold was used in their religious rituals and was also a sign of power. When the Spanish came they valued the gold and killed most of the indigenous people to acquire the gold for themselves.
In the afternoon we went to a Sacred Music Concert at the Saint Ignacio Church just a block away from our hotel. It involved the Philharmonic Orchestra of Bogotá and a choir.
Saint Ignacio Church
In the evening we had a presentation by our trip leader concerning the violence and conflicts in Colombia in the 1980’s and 1990’s. We learned about the complex history of the guerrillas, the paramilitaries, drug cartels and the Colombian army. A peace treaty was signed in 2016.
We heard from two guests who were involved in the conflict. The woman was part of a paramilitary group from the age of 12. The man was involved in a guerrilla group. They have left the groups and are helping others to start a new life in society. They are now married after being willing to listen to and understand each other.
We had a free day today in Bogota and decide to go to the Botanical Gardens of Bogotá. Wandering the gardens was a peaceful delight. Plants from all of the Colombian ecosystems were featured.
There are large Tropical Greenhouses with amazing displays of all the ecosystems.
We ate lunch at the cafe in the gardens. We had a tasty vegan salad. Later for dinner we found a cute little vegan restaurant called Maria Candela.
We took a walk around our hotel’s historic La Candelaria neighborhood. Its architecture is from the Spanish Colonial era. We delighted in the street art on the buildings.
The historic theater, Teatro Colón, right next to our hotel, Hotel de la Opera. Street art and historic buildings
Following a walking tour from the guidebook, we came upon the streets filled with people walking and congregating at the bars and at the cute Plazoleta Chorro de Quevedo. It was definitely where the action is.
We had two days of birding scheduled with Bogotá Birding and Colombia Wildlife Tours. At 5:30 in the morning we were picked up by our guide Juliana and our very capable driver.
DAY ONE – October 3
Our day began at a local cafe in the town of La Calera. We had a local pastry called arepa. It is a made with cornmeal filled with a local soft cheese. It was fun to watch the cook make them.
Chingaza National Park is our destination this morning. It is located to the east of Bogotá.
Our guide, Juliana, and us at the entrance to the park.
It was difficult to photograph the amazing birds that we saw. So I am posting photos from the Merlin App.
Crimson-mantled WoodpeckerGreen and Black Fruiteater
We walked through an area of the mountains called the Paramour. It is similar to the tundra. It contains low growing plants that are able to collect the water and keep the soil moist. Juliana has an interest in flora and ecology and we enjoyed all the information she shared with us.
The paramour with views of the surrounding Andes mountains
After lunch we went to the Conservatorio de Colibries. It is a private nature sight with hummingbird feeders and plants to attract the birds. We loved the hummingbirds!
We are picked up at 5:00 am. Our destination today is Chicaque Nature Reserve. This is a very large private reserve south of Bogotá. This is in the Andes Mountains at a lower elevation than the day before. We walk about 3 kilometers downhill into the valley.
Our path. This was the more level portion!Learning about the flora
We saw or heard an amazing amount of birds. They were at time difficult to see. The walk was an adventure in itself. we were amidst the clouds most of the way. Here a couple of our favorite birds.
At the bottom of the valley is a restaurant where we ate lunch. We ate outside and were able to see many birds as we ate. An entire flock of mixed species flew in and we saw many tanagers, warblers and even a pair of toucans.
Beryl-spangled TanagerOur lunch viewSouthern Emerald Toucanet (photo from ebird)Another view from the valleySelfie with Juliana
We did not climb back out of the valley. We took a classic Land Rover ride up the mountain on the steep path up. It was an experience!
Bogota – Big city, lots of traffic and pedestrians within inches, new birds, and beautiful vistas! Great first impressions as the adventure begins!
Large sign on the top of Monserrate HillBogotá Skyline
We arrived around 5:30 am this morning and to our hotel by 7:30. We rested a little until the hotel staff knocked on the door and announced they were participating in an emergency city wide drill! So we hurriedly left the room and joined the staff and others outside. While hanging out with our new hotel friends we found out where the closest market and ATM was located and set up a driver to take us to Monserrate Hill.
Rather than climb this beautiful 1500 step foot trail to the top of the peak, considering our lack of sleep and an elevation over 10000 feet, we chose to ride up the cable car.
The Teleferico or Cable Car
Our views were somewhat limited as clouds moved in, but a great chance to look out over the city. At the summit there is a beautiful white Catholic church. We had lunch and began our birding adventures as we walked around the lovely grounds.
I traveled to Zambia in 2016 to learn about a project that I had sewn purses for. The project was located in a slum area of Lusaka called Njombe. I have been volunteering with them the last eight years. This month I am participating in a fundraiser. The information is below and I would love your support!
I will also share some photos of my 2016 trip below.
Young girl with one of the purses I made. Helping serve lunch at Needs Care SchoolCinnamon, who along with her husband, Jason, started and lead Sew Powerful, with the girls.
Sew Powerful is run by all volunteers so any money donated goes directly to covering the cost of filling the purses and paying the local women who sew the reusable sanitary products. The girls typically will miss five days of school each month during their periods, because they have no access to sanitary pads. This causes them to fall behind and have difficulty passing their seventh grade exam which is needed to go to secondary school. Many of the girls then marry early and continue in poverty.
Thank you for ready my blog today and learning about this amazing project.
ONE – Our guide, Mohammad Ali – It is from the mind of Mohammad that I have been able to understand the deep historical events that have defined this land. He uses data, visuals and very personal experiences to allow my mind and heart to imagine and experience this beautiful land and its people.
TWO – The Egyptian People – Smiles that are sincere, warm, quick, engaging, and welcoming. The sweet beauty of youth to the rugged and weathered beauty of the elders, it’s the smiles that hug my heart.
THREE – The history – The wonder and mystery of traveling through time. To expand my image of the big story of mankind. To understand better the thinking of the powerful leaders as written in the walls of temples and monuments.
Jordan Highlights from Kathy
ONE – Our guide Mahmoud Twaissi. He brought the historical sites to life. I love a good archaeological site and having him tell us what these stones once were and the many layers of civilization was great. His love for his hometown of Petra and his intimate knowledge being raised in a Bedouin family gave us insights we couldn’t get on our own.
Two – Petra! Seeing Petra has been on my bucket list for years and it did not disappoint!
THREE – The food – I loved the salads that served as appetizers. That could be my entire meal. Yum!
This is the last day of our trip. We take the short flight from Aswan to Cairo. We then head to the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization. In 2021 the 22 royal mummies were moved in a large parade from the Egyptian Museum to this newer museum. There are 18 kings and four queens. We were not able to photograph them, but it was amazing to see these great pharaohs and their coffins. Imagine seeing the mummy of Ramses II and his queen, Nefertari!
The rest of the museum took us through the different eras of Egyptian civilization. From prehistoric to the different dynasties to the Christian time and then the Muslim times.
Ramses IIThe god Amun-RaHorusFrom a Christian ChurchTorah cases
We took a walk in the afternoon to the Cairo Tower.
Tomorrow our pick up time is 2:00 am! Goodby Egypt. Our trip was amazing!
Tim & Kathy Simonsen 